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Term

Kosode

kosode

The kosode is a small-sleeved garment that developed from the Muromachi through the Edo period and is the ancestor of the modern kimono. It comes up in discussing the history of dress at tea gatherings, and its designs were applied to the textiles used for utensils.

History

It originally referred to a tube-sleeved undergarment worn beneath wide-sleeved robes, was promoted to an outer garment in the Muromachi period, and developed elaborate decoration through tsujigahana and yuzen dyeing in the Momoyama and Edo periods. Reflecting the aesthetics of both warrior and townsman society, it became the basis of later Japanese dress including furisode, uchikake, and the various obi knots.

Why it appears in a tea glossary

Kosode is rarely worn as such at a modern gathering, but its patterns are the source referenced in the designs of celebrated textiles and of the silk pouches that wrap thick-tea containers. A guest examining a pouch is often looking at a kosode pattern.

Sources

  1. 小袖(デジタル大辞泉) / コトバンク

    Supports: 平安末期には貴族が装束の下に着る白絹の下着で、鎌倉期に上着の性格を帯び、室町以降に女性が着流しとなり、江戸期には階層・男女を問わず広く用いられたこと

About this article

Edited by the operator of Chaen (a one-person operation) / Last updated:

Tea ceremony descriptions can vary by school and source. Where interpretations differ, this glossary avoids definitive claims and focuses on broadly shared understandings. If you notice an error, please let us know viaContact. To learn about our organization, seeAbout Chaen.

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